*(Left to Right: Howard Magley, Hunter Cooper, Holt McWhirt, Andrew Holcombe, Chris Gragtmans. Photo by Will Riordon)*

Stikine River: Hello and welcome to my canyon.

Chris: Wow. Hello Stikine. I’ve never interacted with a river like you before.

S: Is that right? Well, what brings you here?

C: I have heard about you since I was a child. I have always wanted to visit, but you can be quite elusive.

S: I admit that I don’t like humans bothering me when I’m clearing my throat at high flows. I have heard about you from the Ashlu, Elaho and Homathko Rivers, as well as Skookumchuck Tidal Rapids. But it’s been quite a few years.

C: It has. But I am strong in mind and body and wish to request a safe passage. If it’s not too much trouble we’d love to meet some mountain goats too.

S: The goats are no problem, and I can tell that you are scrappy by how hard you are paddling. Ease up boy! You have 80 kilometers of canyon to go, and many holes to punch. Think you can keep that up?

C: Probably not. There’s just been so much build-up to this.

S: I understand. Let your boat and my curlers and boils do the work.

C: I’ll try, but you are extremely powerful.

S: Nice lines. See… I behave like other rivers.

(The kayaking team navigates Pass / Fail and Wasson’s Hole)

C: Gah that was intense. No you don’t!

S: You flatter me. How many days a year have you been paddling in preparation to come and see me?

(Chris whispers to Stikine inaudibly)

S: That’s not enough Chris.

C: I’m sorry! Life has gotten crazy with kids, work, and other obligations.

S: Fair enough. Keep in mind that though my waters are laden with glacial sediment and salmon, they have little capacity for excuses. Don’t miss this last eddy above Site Zed. You have no business in there…

C: I agree wholeheartedly. See you in a bit.

S: I’ll be here.

*(The author at Site Zed. Photo by Holt McWhirt)*

C: Alright, let’s do this.

S: Continuing on today?

C: Yes - the goal is to make it to Wolf Tracks Camp instead of the traditional three day. Holt and I fly out in two days.

S: Enjoy the view over that next wave...

C: Shiiiiiiiitttt!!!

(Chris crests the wave and sees Holt surfing a huge hole. Chris charges into the shoulder and tucks with all his ability, barely avoiding joining Holt)

S: Haha! Day Two Narrows gets ‘em every time. He’s fine. He has a strong spirit and humble soul.

C: These walls are intense. You’re making me a bit claustrophobic.

S: If you were totally comfortable in here, wouldn’t it be a letdown?

C: I guess you’re right. I’m used to more control than this though.

S: Is control why you came to the Canadian Northland?

C: It’s kind of hard to think philosophically right now, but maybe I’m seeking that ragged line where control and chaos are in balance.

S: Interesting way to put it.

(Silence and flow… the kayaking team works their way downstream communicating only with hand / paddle gestures)

S: Your boy Howard is serving up some beauty lines for you guys. The Force runs strong in him.

C: No doubt! I cannot believe how many amazing un-named rapids you have… my brain is turning to an endorphin mush.

S: I am indeed blessed.

C: This doesn’t feel right.

(The team accidentally drops into a nasty crack on river right… chaos ensues)

S: That line wouldn’t have been my first choice.

C: (Upside down against a wall) Ok Chris, this is the Stikine River; do not swim. Take time to get a good setup. Gah WTF is this swirling water doing to my paddle?! I can’t set up. This is not getting better and I’m out of time… ROLL!

S: Here’s a little help son.

C: GASP!! Pant, pant, pant.

S: What was that Chris?

C: I don’t know… I’m pretty gassed. Thank you for the help.

(Chris crumples over his boat and asks the team to rest and drain water for a few minutes. They wait patiently for a soggy old river dog to shake out)

C: Damn, I think I might have benefited from camping at Site Zed. I’m exhausted!

S: Not used to kayaking every day for weeks on end anymore, are you?

C: I guess not.

S: Well, I’m glad that you got to paddle with my little sister, the Iskut River. She liked your group’s energy.

C: The Iskut and the other rivers we’ve paddled have been stunning. We’ve been waiting for you to drop in.

S: Good things come to those who wait.

C: Apparently so!

S: You ready for the crux of my canyon? Not that I care if not…

C: Not really, but I plan to give it everything I’ve got regardless.

(The team gets out to scout the entrance to Wall 1, a mandatory, no-scout, no-portage class V+ rapid)

C: I can’t see anything down there.

S: Be deliberate and definitive in thought and action, and it’ll work out. It’s similar to sailing… show clear intent.

C: Kind of like in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade: “Only the penitent shall pass?”

S: That’s one way of putting it.

C: Alright here we go… I’m penitent!!

(Chris drops into Wall 1 Entrance behind Hunter and Holt, who promptly get backendered and rejected by a 10 foot crashing wave. They scramble and windmill their loaded boats with all their abilities to get to the correct position for the main drop, and away from a series of gruesome pourovers)

C: Adjusting my plan!

S: I like these KLCG kids. They’re intensely loyal to each other, and the wise Chattooga River has taught them well. They are not burdened by entitlement. Go ahead boys… here’s some curlers to get you off the wall and back across the river.

C: Ok that entrance went well and I’m in the right place, paddling hard, looking forward… can’t see anything!

(BOOM!! Chris backenders violently in the first hole of Wall 1, works with the river and rolls up as he hits the corner of the next pourover, flushing through. The group floats downstream between sheer walls as the aeration vibrates their hulls with a crackling hiss. They alternate between staring open-mouthed at each other in awe and disbelief, and hooting / hollering in joy.)

S: Helluva day one. Good job.

C: I have no words.

(The menacing canyon walls open up)

S: You seem pretty excited about the Book of Legends. Go leave your mark.

C: Ok. Thank you Stikine.

S: Good morning. What did you think of Wolf Tracks?

C: That is one of the most special places on Planet Earth.

S: Are you ready for what lies downstream?

C: I’m a bit sore, but have never dedicated myself to anything in life more than whitewater kayaking, so yes I’m prepared to meet you on your terms.

S: Excellent. I’m quite proud of this first mosaic of whitewater… Garden of the Gods 2.

C: Unbelievable. That rapid is a work of art.

S: Gotta love the “good morning rapid” on overnighters.

C: I’ve never paddled a better one…

(The team makes their way through kilometers of high quality whitewater with stunning scenery and several mini-gorges)

C: Is that the rapid they call Rowdy Flatwater? Suitable name!

S: Nice work getting that first roll out of the way. Try to loosen up… bring some of the flow you had before the slot yesterday.

C: I’m digging deep.

S: That’s all you can do.

C: Is this Wall 2 down here?

S: Yep. Wall 2 - Scissors - Hole that Ate Chicago - VDrive - Guard Dog - Tanzilla Slot.

C: Look at these walls stretching to the sky. The stakes are high here.

S: Correct.

(The team scouts and runs Wall 2 and Scissors. The geology and gradient squeeze the power and fury of the Stikine into a building crescendo)

S: Andrew is unique. I threw him lots of curveballs yesterday, and he took them all in stride. Today he is tapped into my deepest currents and gliding where he wants to go effortlessly. I can’t believe he’s never come to see me before.

C: I know he’s wanted to. And yes he is unique… one of the best to ever pick up a kayak paddle.

S: Based on the ones I’ve met, I agree.

C: I’m getting it done Stikine, but I’m sorry it’s not with more style.

S: It’s ok. If you visit me again, you’ll know how to prepare a bit better.

C: This canyon is unbelievable. You are Nature’s fury.

S: Some people like to call me “The Truth.” That’s probably in the eye of the beholder, but I do like to be a mirror that tests you humans and gives you a glimpse into the depths of your own souls.

C: That’s certainly true for me. I’ll never be the same.

S: I’m pleased that you’ve made the commitment to come visit. I know I’m a tricky one to catch.

C: We’ve been talking about that. You seem to react strongly to rain, and your unpredictability makes a successful run that much more special.

S: I suppose I do act a bit different than many other glacier and snow-fed rivers.

(The team navigates The Hole that Ate Chicago)

S: Nice line. That’s more consistent with your body of work that I’ve heard about than some of your other lines.

C: Thank you and no kidding!

S: I respect when humans persevere and keep getting back up in the face of adversity. I think there’s a quote about how your mindset when you’re performing at your worst shows what you’re truly made of…

C: That rings a bell. I’ve been utilizing every mental, physical, and skill resource that I possess.

S: I hope you’ve saved some for V-Drive.

C: Ha! Me too. I am so grateful to be right here right now. I’ve wanted to run this beast my whole life.

S: It’s right there waiting for you to peel out.

(The team drops into the maw of V-Drive, and kayaks fly left and right, vertical, upside down, upright, planing, backwards…)

S: Good show!

C: Hahaha! That rapid just ate my lunch. What an amazing display of water and gravity.

S: I admit I am quite proud of that one too.

C: For good reason. Stikine, thank you for the safe passage through your canyon. It’s been the river trip of a lifetime.

S: You’re not done yet son.

C: I know. Regardless of how it looks, I’m walking Guard Dog. That feels right considering our interaction thus far.

S: I understand.

(Howard, Andrew and Holt run Guard Dog with beautiful lines; Hunter and Chris walk)

*(Howard Magley lines up Guard Dog rapid)*

S: Ferry out hard to miss that big tubing wave downstream. The last two people who dropped in had the paddles ripped out of their hands immediately.

C: Geez. Ok.

S: That is Tanzilla Slot right there… the exit to my canyon. I’ve enjoyed the conversation, and there are quite a few goats waiting for you in the runout.

C: I can’t believe it. Thank you. I do have one more question before I go. Stikine, why did you have to take Jeff?

(The canyon falls quiet. The walls press in. Even the current seems to slow, murmuring in swirls and echoes...)

S: I could sense that tension in you. Jeff was a radiant spirit with an abundant heart. I know you spent time training on your home river with him.

C: I did.

S: What you describe as “taking” is not my intent. Rivers are not cruel, nor kind. We are ancient, powerful, vibrant and unpredictable. And we will always be. Those who join in our dance accept the covenant… that beauty and risk are forever bound together. Just like light and shadow, joy and sorrow, love and grief, life and death. Jeff knew this, and carried it with grace.

C: I know he did.

S: All rivers eventually join the ocean, and we don’t know when that moment will arrive. Jeff’s river did so sooner than his tribe wanted, but he’s had his finger on you and every kayaker who’s come through this canyon since he crossed over. He moves in currents unseen, rejoicing in the clean lines, chuckling at the backenders, and giving a nudge towards safety in the truly serious situations. He loves all of you deeply.

C: Thank you.

S: The time has come. Paddle through the slot… it’s a portal back to your world. I hope to see you again sometime.

(Chris and team paddle through Tanzilla Slot and are reborn. No one exits the Grand Canyon of the Stikine as the same person who entered.)

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The Discomfort Zone Podcast